[EDITOR'S PICKS] MORRO BAY CABERNET SAUVIGNON CENTRAL COAST 1999 ($14) Surprising weight and richness for this price category, with layers of rich blackberry and cassis flavors. A product of California's Central, rather than Northen Coast, this wine has probably caused many sleepless nights for Napa's pricier producers. ANDRETTI MERLOT NAPA VALLEY 1999 ($22) A blockbuster, pure and simple. One of the darkest, most exotic Merlots I've seen from Napa in this price range, this wine is packed with flavors of spiced plum and roasted berries, with a think, luscious texture that coats the palate. This wine is a personal favorite. QUIPE ROUSSANE BIEN NACIDO VINEYARD SANTA MARIA VALLEY 2000 ($20) Absolutely gorgeous. One of my favorite wines of the more than one hundred tasted, this Rhone-style white has a thick texture and is dripping with honey and peach flavors, with hints of sandalwood and mineral thrown in for good measure. MACMURRAY RANCH PINOT GRIS RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY 2001 ($22) Actor Fred MacMurray originally owned this property, which is now a piece of the Gallo empire. Their Pinot Gris is a gorgeous white, full of peach and honeydew flavors, with a thick, beautiful texture and long finish. SMOKING LOON VIOGNIER CALIFORNIA 2001 ($11) What a wine for the money. Exotic flavors of peach, honey-suckle, and melon soar from the glass, complementing a thick, luscious texture. ANNIE'S LANE RIESLING CLARE VALLEY 2001 ($16) An impressive nose of "petrol" (a classic Riesling descriptor) and apple aromas, followed by waves of fruit and bright acidity. This is a great New World Riesling. VILLA MARIA SAUVIGNON BLANC PRIVATE BIN MARLBOROUGH 2002 ($12) A wild thing, brimming with exuberant fruit and complex herbal aromas - this is what New Zeland Sauvignon Blanc is all about. Don't be scared off by the screw-top closure (dubbed a "Stelvin" closure in the wine business) - it eliminates the possibility of cork-taint. PLANETA LA SEGRETA BIANCO SICILIA 2001 ($18) A white wine from Sicily? Yes, and a heck of a good one at that. It expresses a strong pear aroma, with hints of apple and mineral. The darker color suggests oak aging, but it doesn't overwhealm the wine's personality. This wine is an interesting cocktail of various French and Italian varietals. BOLLINGER BRUT CHAMPAGNE SPECIAL CUVEE NV ($45) Full-bodied and rich, this marvelous Champagne was James Bond's first choice for bubbly - and no wonder. Rich flavors of biscuit, ginger, and honey caress the palate, followed by a long, lingering finish. This is world-class Champagne for the price of a so-so seat for the Pacers. KRUG BRUT CHAMPAGNE GRANDE CUVEE NV ($150) How can a wine with this much force and richness achieve such elegance? Despite its power, its completely balanced and accented with enticing flavors of bread dough, pumpkin pie spice, baked apples and ginger. The finish lasts for multiple minutes. If you love Champagne, consider throwing down a C-note (and then some) for this top-drawer Champagne. GRUET BRUT NV ($16) This delicious sparkler has achieved cult status with sommeliers, who love revealing that this wine hails, not from France, but New Mexico. Boasting a beautiful straw-yellow color and exciting flavors of green apple, citrus, and yeast, this is a clean, sophisticated style of sparkling wine - at a bargain-basement price. SEAVIEW BRUT SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA 2000 ($10) This wine is an incredible bargain. Most bargain-basement sparklers are lean and clean, but this vintage-dated Aussie sparkler is rich and full-flavored, with an almost "oily" palate and a range of flavors that mimic - but don't completely capture - true Champagne. Creamy flavors of pear dominate this delicious sparkling wine. COPPOLA BLANC DE BLANCS SOFIA CALIFORNIA 2001 ($20) This fascinating wine was created for Sofia Coppola's wedding. In the last few years this creamy sparkler has been available across the country. No one will mistake this seductive wine for Champagne, but it's less austere and more fun than the French sparklers - and marked by decadent flavors of apple, honeydew, and roasted fig. CHARLES HIEDSIECK BRUT CHAMPAGNE BLANC DES MILLENAIRES 1990 ($90) This is what world-class sparkling Chardonnay can achieve. The flavors of buttered toast, honey, and lemon cream are enticing and winning, but it's the texture - at once supple and super-rich - that makes you feel like this wine is a bargain even at its hefty price. ROEDERER ESTATE BRUT ANDERSON VALLEY NV ($20) The cool vineyards of Anderson Valley produce this well-made sparkler. Apple and pear flavors dominate, but the lasting impression is of elegance. This California sparkler gives Champagne serious competition. If you've got another Andrew Jackson in your wallet, try the Roederer Estate L'Ermitage 1998 - it's even better. VEUVE CLICQUOT BRUT CHAMPAGNE NV ($45) Classic Champagne. Veuve Clicquot's iconic orange label makes a cameo in the movie Casablanca, and was a favorite in pre-Revolutionary Russia. It is one of my personal favorites, too. I love the complex flavors of biscuit, honey, and citrus, but I'm even more impressed by this wine's significant weight, luscious texture, and lingering finish. [SPECIAL SELECTIONS] CARTLIDGE & BROWNE CABERNET SAUVIGNON CALIFORNIA 2000 ($12) This bargain-priced wine is a plush charmer, with delicious plum and dark fruit flavors cascading over the palate. Why can't all bargain wines taste this good? ESTANCIA MERLOT CALIFORNIA 2000 ($15) A nice medium-bodied wine with a lot more complexity and pleasure than you would expect at this price. Flavors of plums, berries, and herbs and a velvety texture make this wine a real charmer. ROSENBLUM ZINFANDEL VINTERS CUVEE XXIV CALIFORNIA ($14) Soft, seductive notes of raspberry and strawberry unfold on the palate, with a layer of dusty earth on the finish that offers a bit of complexity and seriousness to this otherwise hedonistic, fun-loving wine. COPPOLA SYRAH DIAMOND SERIES 2000 ($15) Nearly purple in color, this intense Syrah offers up flavors of dark fruit and freshly ground pepper. This is a lot of wine for the money. BOGLE PETITE SIRAH CALIFORNIA 2000 ($12) A dark, nearly purple wine with hints of spice, vanilla, and blueberry pie on the nose. Great texture and flavors for a wine in this price category - layers of blueberry and blackberry jam flavors dusted with a little earth. COPPOLA CLARET CALIFORNIA 2000 ($17) This Cabernet-dominated blend tastes like a much more expensive wine, with great cassis and dark fruit flavors and a long, lingering finish. A good wine at any price, and an amazing one for less than $20. MURPHY-GOODE MERLOT ALEXANDER VALLEY 1999 ($22) I was impressed with this wine before I knew the price, and after I pulled the bag away in our blind tasting I was astounded - this is the sort of wild, exciting Merlot that usually starts around $30. From the exotic nose of plum pudding, chocolate, and sassafras root, to the wine's dark purple color and weighty texture, this wine is a domesticated monster. SEGHESIO ZINFANDEL OLD VINES SONOMA COUNTY 2000 ($28) Enticing aromas of crushed red and black berries float from the glass like a freshly baked huckleberry pie cooling on the sill. The gorgeous, velvety texture and layers of fruit and spice provide more than enough counterweight to balance this wine's significant alcohol. TURNBULL SYRAH NAPA VALLEY 2000 ($30) This wine is a triumph, combining thick layers of sweet, delicious fruit and incredible intensity with a sense of balance. The wine press went ga-ga over the 1999, but the 2000 has nearly the same concentration, and a great sense of elegance. This was a great crowd pleaser at our tasting. EOS PETITE SIRAH RESERVE PASO ROBLES 1999 ($25) An outrageous nose, so rich it almost smells like cheese, with lots of toasty American oak on offer as well. This super-dark, super-rich wine offers amazing texture and structure, and layer after layer of thick, rich blackberry fruit. A wine for hedonists. FRANCISCAN MAGNIFICAT NAPA VALLEY 1999 ($50) A gorgeous, complex wine that reveals layers of currant, plum, Asian spice, and leather. It seems perverse to call a $50 wine a bargain, but in today's Napa that's the right word for this outstanding wine. MERRYVALE MERLOT RESERVE NAPA VALLEY 1999 ($35) This is an insider's wine. Merryvale's $90 flagship wine, Profile, often steals the spotlight, but this wine is nearly as good - and it's one-third the price. Featuring a core of deep, dusty plum flavors layered with complex notes of cedar and leather, this wine is a dark, brooding Merlot that could cellar for nearly a decade. ROSENBLUM ZINFANDEL RESERVE HENDRY VINEYARD NAPA VALLEY 1999 ($40) This is a Cab-like Zinfandel - notes of black currant, spice, cedar, and toasty oak soar from the glass, followed by the more traditional Zinfandel qualities of briar and berry. This is an intense, well-balanced, absolutely blue-chip wine - one of the best Zinfandels I've tasted this year. ELYSE SYRAH NAPA VALLEY 1999 ($36) Co-fermented with Viognier like a French Cote-Rotie, this Syrah is an interesting creature - sweet, floral aromatics seem to suggest lightness, but the wine's weight and concentration tell a different story. This is a beautiful, complex wine from a boutique producer. ELYSE SIRAH VALLEY RUTHERFORD 2000 ($35) A monstrous, port-like wine that exudes aromas and flavors of dark blueberries. You may want to use a spoon for this super-rich wine. E. GUIGAL COTES DU RHONE 2001 ($11) Wine lovers have come to rely on Guigal's red Cotes du Rhone, but the white version is coming on strong in the 2001 vintage. Smelling of peach, lemon, and offering just a bit of minerality, thi s is a sophisticated, delicious wine - and one of the best sub-$15 whites I've tasted in a long time. RANCHO ZABACO PINOT GRIS RESERVES SONOMA COAST 2001 ($14) A fascinating, beautiful wine, offering ripe flavors of melon, fig, and peach, but also hints of sophisticated minerality. MATARKI SAUVIGNON BLANC HAWKES BAY 2000 ($17) My tasting notes read, "Bright fruit - fig, melon, and classic Sauvignon Blanc qualities, with great acidity and exuberance - this tastes New Zeland!" And so it is, and a very fine example of the great Sauvignon Blancs produced by the Kiwis. SANTA JULIA TORRONTES MENDOZA 2002 ($7) Peach, pear, and melon aromas mark this gorgeous, mouth-filling white. There is probably a bit of residual sugar, but it's well balanced and not distracting. J. MOREAU & FILS MOREAU BLANC ($8) This wine was a real surprise. Lower-priced French Chardonnay is often unoaked, but it's rarely as cheap and as good as this non-vintage charmer. This is a lovely, simple wine, offering up fresh lemon and mineral notes. TIAMO VENTO 2001 ($9) This Italian blend of Pinot Grigio and Garganega combines hedonistic, perfumed notes of honey and peach with sophisticated hints of minerality on the finish. PETER LEHMAN RIESLING BAROSSA 2001 ($16) A great New World Riesling bursting with flavors of peach and lemon, but balanced by certain Old World qualities like great acidity and that elusive "petrol" note that appears in world-class Rieslings. There's a lot of fruit here, but it seems to be vinified dry - this is a very successful wine. YALUMBA "Y" UNWOODED CHARDONNAY SOUTH AUSTRALIA 2002 ($12) Such beautiful purity in this wine, but great ripeness too - flavors of melon, honey, quince, and apple roll across the palate, with everything brought into focus by crisp acidity. Just delicious, and an eye-opener for folks who think they don't like Chardonnay. BESSERAT DE BELLEFON BRUT CHAMPAGNE CUVEE DES MOINES NV ($40) In past decades the word "cremant" signified softer bubbles, rather than a wine produced outside the Champagne region. This lovely wine is a cremant in the older sense; its soft, creamy texture creates a luscious mouthfeel that is complemented by fresh flavors of citrus, honey and spice. COLSANDAGO EXTRA-DRY PROSECCO 2001 ($22) Prosecco is rarely vintage dated, but this impressive wine from Colsandago is an exception. This wine's clean flavors of melon and pear make a delicious impression. IRON HORSE BLANC DE BLANCS SONOMA COUNTY 1993 ($35) Full of yeasty, lemon-cream Chardonnay flavors, this wine is surprisingly rich and weighty, given its Blanc de Blancs style - perhaps because it spends nearly seven years aging on its lees. A compelling example of what California can do with sparkling Chardonnay-driven wines. SCHRAMSBERG BLANC DE BLANCS 1999 ($30) Rich, yeasty aromas of toast and bright citrus lead the way, followed by hints of spice and a hedonistic, creamy texture. Young, fresh, and absolutely delicious. ROTARI "ARTE ITALIANO" BRUT TALENTO TRENTO NV ($12) A fresh, pleasing wine, and a surprisingly sophisticated one, given its price. Hints of ginger, honey, and a medley of citrus lead the way. The finish is fairly short, but absent the bitterness of most sub-$15 sparklers. A great buy in sparkling wine. DELBECK BRUT CHAMPAGNE HERITAGE NV ($36) This wine's tiny bubbles and beautiful, straw-gold color promise much, and this delicious, sophisticated Champagne delivers. Full of yeasty aromas of bread dough and roasted nuts, this is a complex wine with a rich mouthfeel. DOMAINE CHANDON BRUT RESERVE NV ($24) This reserve wine is a bit more expensive than Domaine Chandon's ordinary bottling, but it is aged on the lees for twice as long - and it shows. Rich flavors of citrus and biscuit fold into the fruit, creating and impression of sophistication and hedonism all at once. I'm also a fan of Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noirs, a less yeast-driven wine, but one with great elegance and interest. GREG NORMAN ESTATES SPARKLING CHARDONNAY-PINOT NOIR SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA NV ($20) Lots of exuberant fruit in this wine, with muted Pinot Noir flavors complementing - and nearly overpowering - the elegance of Chardonnay. This is as far from true Champagne as you can get, but that's not a bad thing - this is delicious and decadent, and a great match with food. [UNDER $10] CHATEAU JUVENAL COTES-DU-VENTOUX 2001 ($7.99) Pretty aromas of raspberry and cherry rise from the glass, but the real excitement begins with a sip - massively concentrated and rich, this is a stunning sub-$10 red. Marked by sweet flavors of cassis and kirsch, this tastes like a $30 Chateauneuf-du-Pape.   LOUIS LATOUR CHARDONNAY ARDECHE 2000 ($7.99) Characterized by lemon, honey, and mineral notes, this bargain wine from the Rhone Valley in France is sophisticated and refreshing. CLINE SYRAH CALIFORNIA 2000 ($9.99) A very impressive wine for the money, this dark-hued Syrah offers deep flavors of raspberry and spice. There's a lot of power here, and very little oak to get in the way. DELAS COTES-DU-VENTOUX 2001 ($9.99) A bit more serious and structured than the other wines in this price category, the Delas Cotes-du-Ventoux will speak to lovers of earthy Rhone reds. OSBORNE SOLAZ TEMPRANILLO/CABERNET SAUVIGNON SPAIN ($8.99) Not a blockbuster, but a delicious quaffing wine marked by flavors of cherry, spice, and vanilla oak. JEST RED CALIFORNIA ($9.99) Shy about revealing vintage or varietals, this light-hearted wine is serious in one respect - it displays great concentration and depth of flavor for a wine in this price category, with deep notes of plum, ripe berry, and currant leading the way. Absolutely delicious. ROSENBLUM VINTERS CUVEE XXV ($9.99) Grillers and 'cue fans, this is your wine. A sweet front palate (there's probably a bit of residual sugar here) leads to flavors of dark cherry and raspberry and a hint of orange peel - it's just the right thing to complement smoky foods from a backyard grill. It's a bit simple, but very tasty. ARIA CAVA SPAIN ($9.99) A curious sparkler - and a great value. Characterized by a pale yellow color and small, pin-point bubbles, this Spanish Cava smells yeasty and luxurious, with flavors of green apple spilling across a rich, almost oily palate. CHATEAU VAL JOANIS COTES DU LUBERON 1999 ($8.99) A great example of a French Rhone-style wine - earthy, sophisticated, yet still endowed with enough ripe red fruit to provide pleasure and interest. RUFFINO LIBAIO CHARDONNAY TOSCANA 2001 ($8.99) A clean, pure style of Chardonnay, this wine's lemon, pear, and apple flavors are complemented by a hint of minerality. This is a beautiful wine, adorned with little or no oak - a great match for subtle dishes like sushi. SMOKING LOON SYRAH CALIFORNIA 2000 ($9.99) A plush fruit bomb, exuding aromas of berries and purple flowers like violet and lilac. This wine is pure hedonism. DEAKIN CHARDONNAY VICTORIA 2001 ($9.99) Surprisingly lean and lemony for an Australian Chardonnay, this is a racy wine that will pair well with food. GALLO OF SONOMA CHARDONNAY SONOMA COUNTY 2001 ($9.99) There's a fair ammount of oak here, but also a great concentration of flavors, including baked apple and tropical fruits. This is a delicious, creamy-textured wine that will satisfy lovers of California Chardonnay. CANYON ROAD CABERNET SAUVIGNON CALIFORNIA 2000 ($7.99) Not a blockbuster, but a pleasant, soft-textured wine that reveals hints of orange-peel and herbs underneath the soft red fruit. A great quaffer at a great price. CASA LAPOSTOLLE CABERNET SAUVIGNON RAPEL VALLEY 2001 ($9.99) A curious sparkler - and a great value. Characterized by a pale yellow color and small, pin-point bubbles, this Spanish Cava smells yeasty and luxurious, with flavors of green apple spilling across a rich, almost oily palate. DEAKIN SHIRAZ VICTORIA 2000 ($9.99) A curious sparkler - and a great value. Characterized by a pale yellow color and small, pin-point bubbles, this Spanish Cava smells yeasty and luxurious, with flavors of green apple spilling across a rich, almost oily palate. CHATEAU BARAT BORDEAUX 2000 ($8.99) A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, this bargain Bordeaux offers a nice array of plum and cedar flavors. BLACK OPAL SHIRAZ SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA 2001 ($8.99) Enticing flavors of raspberry and spice get your attention, while the bright acidity lends a focused, food-friendly quality to this Australian red.